Armagnac – Bordeaux’s best kept secret
One hour and a half’s drive down motorway south of Bordeaux city and you arrive in an unspoilt region that seems to have escaped the pressures of modern life. Time feels different down here when you taste, if it was a common occurrence, brandy made 30, 50 or 70 years ago as if it were a cup of tea (I am english originally). The oldest armagnac (the oldest region to produce brandy in the world) we tasted was 1942 – dating before the second world war which ‘celebrates’ its 80th anniversary this year. Those who remember are very old today where as these ‘wines’ are still in their youth.
These Armagnacs are aged over decades in old oak barrels 400 litres from the forests around the estates that themselves last for decades (the local barrel maker is Bartholomo). Each one has its story written on a card – they are bottled according to demand cask strength naturally around 40 to 50% (no diluting down needed as it is a continuous distillation and not twice like in cognac) and when there is no more – that is it! There are around 600 bottles per cask.
Each barrel is a snapshot of a certain vintage, usually one grape variety (or a blend of two particularly when it is Colombard) and a year–vintage. Making a more consistent blend is more linked to Cognac called VSOP, XO etc based on a blend with an average age.
The acidic white (grape varieties are Colombard – often blended , otherwise varietals of Baco hybrid, Folle blanche (delicate difficult but finesse – and Ugni Blanc) are harvested at 125hl/hectare (for us in Bordeaux it is around 45!) and it is its acidity that preserves it until it is distilled (no sulphites allowed t preserve it due to the distillation).
Aerating the 2004 vintage armagnac at Château de Lacquy
What makes Armagnac special is that it is only distilled once and so keeps a lot of its primary fruit flavours of the grapes (which is why we can taste the difference between the grape varieties still in the brandy). (cognac is double distilled so smooth but less fruity). Bear with me while I research their individual grape organoleptic properties
Our Itinerary for the Day – March 11th Armagnac Wine Tour with SIP Wine Tours!
Discover the historic region of the Gers where Armagnac, the most fruity of the world’s brandies is made from acidic white wine (mostly from the American hybrid Bacco Blanc and Ugni Blanc) by distillation through a continuous copper pot still (takes place over the winter season). Unlike Cognac vintages are produced in this rustic unspoiled region of vines, hills, forests and beamed buildings where the colourful character of D’Artagnan, one of the three musketeers hailed from.
9.30 pickup central Bordeaux – 1 hour and a half drive to the heart of the Armagnac region
11am Château de Lacquy, 404 Route de l’Armagnac, 40120 Lacquy (Sandra Lemaréchal 06 74 39 32 08). http://www.chateaudelacquy.com
This exceptional place has belonged to the same family since 1711, as the oldest family producer of Armagnac. Current owner, Gilles de Boisséson, represents the tenth generation. With an area of 400 ha, including 25 ha of vines dedicated to the production of Armagnac, the estate maintains a 300-year-old tradition, is involved in the whole process from grapes to bottling. Compared to the rest of the “Bas-armagnac” appellation, the Lacquy terroir is distinguished by the depth and diversity of its tawny sands in which there is little clay to produce refined brandy.
They apologise for the lack of old armagnacs (though we did have the chance to taste a blend in a beautiful decanter price 465€ made from armagnac from 1900s ‘carafe des siecles’) as the grandmother of the family was left alone when her husband died at the start of WWII (and with two children) she heroically made the decision to make the most of the old vintages in the cellars to finance the escape of many, over the Pyrenees mountains into free Spain. It was a big ‘resistance’ camp in the area. We cannot help agree there is not a better use for this amazing old brandy.
They have their own still but it is kept far from the inflamable armagnac ageing in the barrels and only works (continuously for a few weeks a year in November). 65 barrels around 2 per day for 25 days.
Sandra who hosted us here at Château de Lacquy, turned out to be an expert and ‘passionée’ (having worked in the communications of the Amagnac board) of armagnac who enlightened us on many insights into this historic, intriguing brandy.
12.45 Lunch at local’s place Le Cadet de Gascogne in Saint Justin (05 58 51 84 59 at 6 Allées Gaston Phoebus – 40240 Saint Justin) five minutes away – beautiful simply prepared food (risotto with green peas and perfectly cooked cod). Lovely shady terrasse in the summer and a simple hotel.
2.30 Domaine de Maupas Jerome Buffaumene de Maupas (Vincent 06 74 4545 63) 32240 Mauléon d’Armagnac. Two rugby brothers Jerome and Vincent run this mixed property with pasture, white wine (sell on) and Armagnac. It is here we tasted the 89, 79 and 42. Little more rustic but amazing. They rent a still which they pull by tractor from another estate at the start of November. It runs continuously (unique continuous pot still) for 5 days and then all distillation is done for the year. It then is collected by the neighbour.
Fascinated by these ancient ‘eaux de vie’ still authentic and escaped from the marketing glitter of our age. Love to discover more with you nicolle@wineguidebordeaux.com With a capital called Condom (and its armagnac museum) there is more depth to discover.
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